Rias Baixas, Spain

Full bottle 1,245 g. Tasted blind and then tasted again (not blind) several times over several days. Certified sustainable (Fair’N Green). Several months on fine lees.
Delicate and pretty, going from fennel flowers to lemon verbena to lemongrass to lemon sherbet. Gentle but surprisingly deep plashy pools of acidity. Orange citrus and tamarind at the core, that over 10 days softened to buttery saffron. Like all the really good, complex Albariños, it has high-frequency intensity. It feels as if its heart has been hand-drawn with a soft graphite pencil. After being open for days, it just finished on peaches and apricots, as if giving up pretending to be about anything else. JANCIS ROBINSON