Lamy has 2.4-hectares in the 1er Cru Les Frionnes, with vines planted in 1935, 1960 and 1985. It’s a southeast-facing site with old, decomposed limestone/clay soils and a plethora of small rocks in the topsoil. The vines are adjacent to the Derrière chez Edouard, but this is a slightly warmer site and is therefore picked earlier. Frionnes gives both pulpy fruit and vibrant, saline freshness along with a compact, rocky close

From white marl over limestone, akin to the Kimmeridgian soils of Chablis, the 2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes emerges from the glass with aromas of nashi pear, white flowers, oyster juice, white peach and lemon oil. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, pure and chiseled, with a crisp core of fruit and ample chalky extract, concluding in a long, saline finish. Oceanic in style, it will delight purists.